Story

Juan, a second-generation farmer, has been cultivating coffee for over four decades. His 16-hectare farm, El Porvenir, nestled south of Huila in the obscure yet thriving microregion of Palestina, provides an ideal environment for specialty coffee trees to flourish. Recognizing this, Juan Jimenez has astutely nurtured a diverse range of coffee varieties, including the recently discovered Pink Bourbon cultivar. His early investment in this highly sought-after alleged mutation has yielded significant rewards. By combining his expertise in agronomy techniques with the captivating flavor profile of the Pink Bourbon, Jimenez has achieved success, winning awards and expanding his reputation within the specialty coffee community.

WASHED PROCESSED COFFEES

The washed process, initially intended to influence flavor, has evolved into a method for creating an easy-to-dry, ubiquitous product that reduces risk. This process has maintained popularity due to its impact on the final cup of coffee. Coffees processed as ‘washed’ often align with consumer expectations for taste. Washed process coffees are celebrated for their high perceived clarity and balanced fruit characteristics and acidity. However, the process is not always straightforward.

Removing the outer layer of fruit from a coffee cherry has been relatively simple. The post-harvest processing begins immediately after picking the coffee cherries. The cherries are inspected, with an initial quick round of hand-sorting to separate defective coffees before placing them into the machine hopper. Various methods are used to remove the outer layer of mucilage from the cherries. The most common machines use friction to remove the thin layer of fruit skin from the cherry, followed by a formal fermentation phase to break down the sticky fruit layer.

During fermentation, a microbial de-mucilagination process occurs, allowing the outer fruit and pectin layer to break down, making the coffee easier to dry. This fermentation process can vary widely depending on the facility, producer preferences, and cultural practices. Water is often added as lubrication through the machine, and some producers choose to ferment dry.

The typical post-depulp fermentation time ranges from 12 to 36 hours. This phase also significantly alters the organic acids within the coffee, transforming sugars and organic acids. The best-washed coffees maintain their complex fruit esters. Once the formal fermentation time is complete, the parchment-sheathed seeds are emptied into a washing channel where they are agitated with rakes or paddles to remove the remaining fruit layer. During this step, the water is refreshed to ensure its ability to separate the fruit layer from the seed. Once the washing is complete, the coffee is transported to a drying facility to prepare it for exportation and storage.

While the terms used to describe specialty coffee processing have remained consistent, the methods employed for post-harvest processing have evolved to not only address the challenge of removing the outer sticky fruit layer from the seed but also present producers with an opportunity to influence the final taste profile of the cup. Recognizing the malleability of the final cup, producers have begun using post-harvest processing to control various factors and shape its flavor. Beyond the well-known variable of the amount of fruit left in contact with the seed during drying, there are now a multitude of data points to monitor, even within the commonly described “washed processed” method.

Within the “washed processed” description, there are levels of fermentation, assuming that the level of fruit left on within this method is fixed (at or near zero, after depulp, which we will discuss later). The variables adjusted to enhance the final cup’s value include time, environment, and additives. Environment and time are closely interconnected, as certain fermentations have a greater impact as the temperature increases in specific environments. Some producers have adopted a more active approach to the environment, allowing oxidation to occur or restricting the contact of oxygen with the seeds (what we in the industry mistakenly refer to as “anaerobic fermentation”). This variability in the environment is often coupled with the addition of yeast, fruit, spices, or even organic acids as inoculants or catalysts for reactions. As the world of post-harvest processing continues to evolve and innovate, we strive to better comprehend and articulate the way the final cup is shaped through more precise descriptors for the process.